Among the countless stellar creations is the signature gin martini, which, if memory serves me correctly, came wheeled to our table, accompanied by a white gloved barman who deftly pulled a bottle of Tanqueray 10 from beneath, and proceeded to offer us a selection of the finest dry vermouths and house-made bitters. Carefully poured, artfully stirred and gently presented, it was, in a word, perfect: this was not drinking, this was living (like the other half, I might add.)

What I took away, aside from a burning jealousy that they were so damn good, was that a bar cart, no matter how simple, can elevate anyone’s home cocktail experience. We are in the process of constructing one for Jack Rudy based on a design found in my great-grandfather’s basement, but in the meantime, there are great finds to be had at thrift stores across America. Your guests will be pleased, no doubt.

For my own martini quaffing, I prefer Plymouth Gin, an incredibly subtle gin distilled from only 7 botanicals, including that stalwart of the gin world: juniper. I love it because it’s not only quite smooth in a stirred martini, but also because I once was told that it was Benjamin Franklin’s favorite gin – that was enough reason for me, taste be damned. For dry vermouth, I prefer Dolin, produced in France. I’ll take mine with a lemon twist; for a different take, try a peel of grapefruit, about the size of a half-dollar, and squeeze it over the cocktail to finish. Drink what you like, remembering only this rule: stir, never shake.

2 ounces Plymouth Gin

.75 ounces Dolin Dry Vermouth

Add ice, and stir.

Strain into a martini glass, and garnish with a peel of lemon.

Brooks Reitz

Shop Heirloom Books on Taigan.com for Brooks’s excellent Jack Rudy Small Batch Tonic.

Mitchell Rosenthal has cooked with the greats (Wolfgang Puck, Seppi Renggli Paul Prudhomme) and owns three of San Francisco’s most beloved restaurants (Town Hall, Salt House, Anchor and Hope) but in “Cooking My Way Back Home” he concentrates most on his love of Southern-inspired comfort food (including Barbecued Shrimp and Lemon Chess Pie). We’ll be featuring Mitch in future issues of Fetch, but for now we want to turn our own concentration on two recipes perfect for the holidays: his addictive Bienville Stuffed Mushrooms and his gorgeous Mini-Red Velvet Cupcakes.

As for “Cooking My Way Back Home,” the cover, featuring a photo of Angels on Horseback, tells you all you need to know about why Mitch is a genius. In his version, the bacon-wrapped oysters are quickly deep fried (instead of broiled to a mush), and served with a tiny dollop of mustardy remoulade. Mitch cooked these at a recent book signing in New Orleans and the results were astonishing. His book is a must-have for you and every enthusiastic home cook on your list.

Pictured above: Chef Mitchell Rosenthal; his book Cooking My Way Back Home, available at Books and Books; his Mini-Red Velvet Cupcakes.

For recipes, see below

Bienville Stuffed Mushrooms

Makes 24 stuffed mushrooms;

serves 8 to 12

Bread Crumbs

4 thick slices coarse country bread such as pain levain

Few drops of olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

 Bienville Stuffing

1 tablespoon canola oil

3 slices thick-cut bacon, diced

1 large yellow onion, diced

1 celery stalk, diced

1 large red bell pepper, seeded and diced

3 crimini mushrooms, diced

2 tablespoons Town Hall Spice Mixture (page 253)

6 ounces shrimp, peeled, deveined, and diced

2 oysters, shucked, with their liquor reserved

1¹/₂ teaspoons chopped garlic

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

2 cups Chicken Stock (page 250) or Shrimp Stock (page 250)

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon firmly packed golden brown sugar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

24 crimini mushrooms, each about 1 to 1¹/₂ inches in diameter

To make the bread crumbs, cut off and discard the crusts from the bread slices, then cut the slices into cubes. Place the cubes in a food processor and pulse until fine crumbs form. Transfer to a bowl, add the oil, and season with salt and pepper, then toss to mix. You should have about 1 cup. Set aside.

To make the stuffing, in large frying pan heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the bacon and fry for 7 to 
8 minutes, or until crispy and all of the fat has been rendered. Raise the heat to high, add the onion, celery, and bell pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until the vegetables start to caramelize. Add the mushrooms and spice mixture and cook for 1 minute, all the while scraping the bottom of the pan. Add the shrimp, oysters and their liquor, and garlic and stir well, continuing to scrape the bottom of the pan. Add the butter and flour and stir to combine. Pour in the stock, add the bay leaf and brown sugar, stir well, and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Let cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until most of the liquid is reduced and the stuffing has a nice thick consistency.

Remove from the heat, remove and discard the bay leaf, and let cool slightly. Transfer the stuffing mixture to the food processor and process until it is thick and a bit chunky. Season with salt and pepper. You should have about 2 cups.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Pull the stems off of the mushrooms. Spoon a generous amount of the stuffing (about 4 teaspoons) into the stem side of each mushroom and top with some of the bread crumbs (about 2 teaspoons). Arrange the stuffed mushrooms on a sheet pan.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the mushrooms are cooked through and the bread crumbs are toasted. Transfer to a platter and serve immediately.

Mini-Red Velvet Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting

Makes 24 cupcakes

Cupcakes

1¹/₄ cups all-purpose flour

³/₄ cup sugar

¹/₂ teaspoon baking soda

¹/₂ teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon unsweetened natural cocoa powder

³/₄ cup canola or safflower oil

¹/₂ cup buttermilk, room temperature

1 large egg, room temperature

1 tablespoon liquid red food coloring

¹/₂ teaspoon distilled white vinegar

³/₄ teaspoon vanilla extract

Frosting

¹/₂ pound cream cheese, at room temperature

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1¹/₃ cups powdered sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Toasted pecan pieces (optional)

Toasted shredded coconut (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 24 mini muffin-tin cups with paper liners.

To make the cupcakes, sift together the flour, sugar, baking soda, salt, and cocoa powder into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment. In a separate bowl, whisk together the oil, buttermilk, egg, food coloring, vinegar, and vanilla. Add half of the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix on low speed just until a paste forms, stopping to scrape down the sides and along the bottom of the bowl as needed with a rubber spatula. Add the remaining wet ingredients and mix until smooth. Do not over mix the batter or the cupcakes will be tough.

Fill the prepared muffin cups two-thirds full with the batter. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of a cupcake comes out clean. Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack, then remove from the pan.

To make the frosting, in the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese on low speed until smooth. Do not whip! Add the butter and mix until incorporated. Use the rubber spatula to scrape down the sides and along the bottom of the bowl to check for lumps. Sift in the powdered sugar and mix on low speed until smooth. Add vanilla and mix until combined.

Spoon the frosting into a pastry bag fitted with a ¹/₄-inch star tip and pipe a rosette onto the top of each cooled cupcake. Sprinkle with the pecans and coconut. Serve right away. They will keep for a day in an airtight container.

Reprinted with permission from Cooking My Way Back Home: Recipes from San Francisco’s Town Hall, Anchor & Hope, and Salt House by Mitchell Rosenthal, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.”

Photo credit: Paige Green © 2011

I’m very excited to be contributing to Fetch. Whenever I have the opportunity to talk about liquor drinks, I seize it, and to know that I’ll be part of a community with a passionate and loyal following is just icing on the cake. When Julia asked me to write about some of my favorite cocktails, I said “yes” without hesitation. I didn’t bother giving her the time to realize that I’m anything but an expert. But, as a Southerner, I have an inherent appreciation for a fine mixed drink, and as a Kentuckian, I grew up with bourbon in my backyard. So I guess I do have a leg to stand on.

As I write, I’m on a plane somewhere over Atlanta, heading back to Charleston having gained a few pounds, some week-old scruff, and a fixed smile as I think back on a Kentucky homecoming filled with friends, family, food, and, of course, several cocktails. After packing a ton of good times into a very few days, I realized something very important about the way I entertain during the holidays especially: simple is better.

It can be fun to pull out all the stops and host an epic soiree with fine foods lovingly prepared all day long—and sometimes for several days prior. But what gets me going is something with a little less pomp and circumstance—perhaps a roasted chicken and roasted vegetables doused with olive oil and kissed with some good sea salt. Less time prepping means more time socializing, an approach I also extend to my holiday drink making.

So for this, the first of my contributions to Fetch, I thought I’d present my own small twist on one of my favorite classic cocktails, the French 75. It’s a very simple drink to make, and nothing says “Let’s Party” like Champagne (or any other sparkling wine). I’ve substituted my own product, Jack Rudy Cocktail Co. Small Batch Tonic, in place of the lemon juice and sugar.

Jack Rudy French 75

1.25 ounces gin

.75 ounces Jack Rudy Cocktail Co. Small Batch Tonic

Brut Champagne or other dry sparkling wine

Combine gin and Jack Rudy Tonic in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a Champagne flute. Fill with Champagne and garnish with a twist of lemon.

Brooks Reitz

Pictured above, Fetch Bar creator Brooks Reitz; Jack Rudy French 75s made with Jack Rudy Cocktail Co. Small Batch Tonic from Heirloom Books.

For more on Brooks Reitz, read Julia’s column in this week’s Fetch. For festive champagne flutes, shop Corzine & Co. on Taigan.com

Order Callie’s Charleson Biscuits at Heirloom Books on Taigan.com.

Order Blackberry Farm’s jams and preserves on Taigan.com.

Order the Sheffield Basket and other serving pieces at Corzine & Co. on Taigan.com

Order Sallie’s Greatest Jams on Taigan.com

Now, thank heavens, I don’t have to risk arrest to get my beloved ham—The Spanish Table sells the only brand available in the U.S. and it costs a whole lot less than a plane ticket.

For a perfect starter to a big meal or as a cocktail nibble with olives and almonds, all you need is a plate of thin-sliced ham that your guests pick up with their fingers. (Bread and/or crackers get in the way of that astonishing texture, but if you must, brush very thin slices of baguette with olive oil, toast, and drape the ham over.)

With that initial jamon haul, I made a first course that’s by now a tradition at both Thanksgiving and Christmas. Everybody demands it. It’s a simple oyster sauté I used to make with the country ham I also love, but the quality of the ingredients—the Spanish ham, the freshest oysters, Meyer lemons if you can get them—elevate the dish to something heavenly. When we’re seated at the table, I serve it on salad or luncheon plates over toast. One year I served it to the masses as an hors d’oeuvre in a chafing dish, with small plates and crisp buttered toast in a silver bread basket on the side, and it was equally successful.

In fact, it has been such a success that I put the recipe (see below) in my book, Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns, and Other Southern Specialties. This year, the dish will be enhanced further by an excellent (and excellently priced) wine selection from A Wine for All’s Eli Hardof, one of my favorite “pairers.” I love that a wine from Italy will be paired with a dish containing that country’s rival ham!

From Eli:
Gini Maciete Fume 2006, Sauvignon Blanc del Veneto. Italy  $25

“A luscious Sauvignon Blanc with bold but rounded citrus notes of Meyer lemon, pineapple, and a hint of apple. The wine has the succulence of a Sancerre without the overwhelming grassiness and minerality. The flavors persist into a long clean finish that reveals a delicate wisp of nutmeg as a farewell note. The wine will pick up on the Meyer lemon juice influence, and will cut through the butter to allow more of the ham flavors to come out. Gini practices organic farming.”

Sauteed Oysters on Toast

Serves 6

6 slices Pepperidge Farm white bread

8 tablespoons butter, plus additional for toast

¼ cup Jamon Iberico, thinly sliced and minced (prosciutto or any good country ham may be substituted)

1/3 cup finely chopped shallots

¼ cup finely chopped green bell pepper

1 pint shucked oysters (about 18 oysters), drained

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Dash of Tabasco sauce

Juice of one lemon (preferably a Meyer lemon)

Finely chopped flat leaf parsley

To make the toast: Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Trim the crusts from bread and discard. Spread some softened butter on both sides of bread slices. Place the slices on a cookie sheet and toast for 8 to 10 minutes, turning once so that both sides are golden brown.

Meanwhile, melt the 8 tablespoons of butter in a large heavy skillet over medium heat, add the ham, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, until slightly crisp. Add the shallots and the bell pepper, turn the heat to low and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the oysters and cook until they are plumped and are beginning to curl on the edges. Quickly swirl in the Tabasco and lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the oysters over the toast, sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Julia Reed

As for the components of the recipe, I was skeptical about all those pureed yellow raisins, but trust the Lees on that point. I’ve seen recipes that sweeten the ham with everything from white sugar to maple syrup, and this is definitely the way to go. The quality of rest of the ingredients is also important, especially the chow chow, which is why we recommend the excellent handmade stuff from Blackberry Farm. Though the recipe calls for a half pound of plain old baked ham, the Lees recommend “adding a couple of tablespoons of country ham to the mix to really crank up the flavor.” Edwards country ham is among my absolute favorites, and the small boneless already cooked Edwards ham from The Organic Butcher is pretty much made for this recipe (and for ham biscuits too). You can really go all out and get the olive oil and vinegar from St. Helena Olive Oil Co. (I’d go with the Twin Sisters Extra Virgin Oil and the sherry vinegar), but it only takes a teaspoon of each, so you can fudge it on that front.

Either way, the Lees suggest serving the sandwiches with hot or iced jasmine tea or fine sherry. Again, they are on the money. And George’s beautiful canister of Etoile de l’Inde, a blend of green and jasmine tea would fit the bill nicely, as would the Tio Pepe Fino Sherry from The Spanish Table. The sherry should be served cold with a bowl of almonds on the side. I can attest that some neat malt Scotch is also an excellent accompaniment, as is the Dos Cortados Palo Cortado VOS Sherry, also from the Spanish Table. Aged for 20 years, it is altogether different and much fuller bodied than the crisp fino sherry, and boasts aromas of roasted nuts with notes of herbs and pepper. An exceptional wine, it is really nice with the sweet/salty/mildly spicy flavor of the relish. But honestly, no matter what your guests may be drinking, they will be following around the tray with the ham.

Julia Reed

Ham Relish

Adapted from The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook

Makes 1 ½ cups relish, enough for ten small tea sandwiches.

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon golden raisins

½ pound baked ham, cut into 1-inch cubes or into ¼ inch slices

2 tablespoons softened cream cheese

2 tablespoons mayonnaise (lemony homemade mayo is really, really amazing here, but Hellman’s will do)

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons Chow Chow, finely chopped

¼ teaspoon curry

Soak raisins in warm water for 10 minutes and then chop medium fine in a food processor until no raisins are left whole. You should have a rough golden puree. Add ham and continue processing for about a minute, until the mixture is smooth and no ham pieces are left whole.

Put the ham and raisin mixture into a mixing bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and blend with a wooden spoon or spatula.

Use immediately or cover and refrigerate. Ham relish will keep refrigerated for three days.

Shop Heirloom Books for The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook and The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern.

Aussie Pete Evans has long been one of his country’s star chefs and cookbook authors, but My Grill is his first American outing. Here, he throws some great stuff on the barbie and mixes up some excellent cocktails.

Pictured above from left:

Evans is as big on corn as we are, and in My Grill, he includes it in recipes ranging from Zucchini and Corn Fritters with Goat Cheese and Gazpacho Sauce to Crab and Sweet Corn Cakes. Here, his Grilled Corn with Chile and Lime keeps it simple, but no less delicious (see recipe below).

Evans offers excellent variations on two of our favorite drinks: the Pimm’s Cup and the martini. His refreshing Pimm’s doe not include the typical super sweet7-UP or bottled lemonade. Instead, he makes his own mixer with lots of lemon juice and simple syrup, and adds chopped cantaloupe to the traditional garnishes. As for the “Breakfast Martini,” some readers will be disappointed to know that  “breakfast” does not refer to time of day, but a key ingredient.  In addition to gin, there’s Cointreau, lemon juice, and citrus syrup, but the surprisingly delicious kicker is marmalade! Evans gives credit to London’s Salvatore Calabrese, the celebrated barman at Duke’s Hotel, for the recipe, and we strongly recommend using Blackberry Farm’s Spring Thyme marmalade for an added herbaceous edge.

There is nothing simpler or more delicious that Evans’s Quick Steaks with Green Olive Dressing and Tomato Salad. Combine with the Grilled Corn above for the easiest ever Labor Day feast.

Shop Books & Books for My Grill, Outdoor Cooking Australian Style by Pete Evans, as well as other terrific cookbooks.
Grilled Corn with Chile and Lime

Serves 4

4 ears corn, unhusked

½ cup butter, softened

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Tabasco sauce, to taste (about 10 to 20 drops)

Sea salt, to taste

Lime wedges, to serve

Place the corn ears in cold water and soak for 10 to 20 minutes. Peel back (but don’t remove) the husks from the cobs. Remove and discard the silk, then bring the husks back over the cob.

Set up the outdoor grill for direct-heat cooking over medium heat. Grill the corn for 15-20 minutes, turning frequently, until the corn husks are dry and brown.

Meanwhile, combine the butter with the pepper flakes, cilantro, Tabasco, and sea salt.

Peel back the husks, brush on the butter mixture liberally and cook for another minute on the grill until the husk blackens in places, then remove from heat and baste on more butter. Serve with lime wedges.
Pimm’s Cup

Serves 4-6

8 ounces Pimm’s No. 1 Cup

4 ounces lemon juice

2 ½ ounces simple syrup

1 cucumber sliced

1 orange sliced

¼ cantaloupe chopped

4-6 mint sprigs

¼ cup grapes

2 cups club soda

Add all ingredients to a carafe with some ice and stir well.

Quick Steaks with Green Olive Dressing and Tomato Salad

Serves 4

4 six-ounce sirloin steaks, pounded to flatten slightly

4 lemon wedges, to serve

Tomato Salad

30 cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

10 fresh basil leaves, torn

½ cup sparkling mineral water

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Green Olive Dresssing

3 teaspoons finely chopped onion

½ cup olive oil

½ cup roughly chopped green Sicilian olives

3 tablespoons lemon juice

½ celery rib, finely chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

To make the salad, put the tomatoes in a bowl with garlic, basil, mineral water, and olive oil, season to taste with cracked black pepper and sea salt, and squeeze with your hand. Let stand 10 minutes for flavors to develop.

Set up the outdoor grill for direct-heat cooking over medium heat.

To make the olive dressing, sauté the onion with a little olive oil in a skillet for a minute, then add to a bowl with the rest of the ingredients.

Brush the steaks with a little oil and season with salt and pepper. Then cook on the grill for 1-2 minutes on each side, or until cooked to your liking.

Serve the steaks topped with some of the olive dressing, and the tomato salad on the side.

Photos reprinted with permission from My Grill: Outdoor Cooking Australian Style. Recipe and text copyright Pete Evans; photograph copyright Anson Smart.

Whether you’ve managed to cadge one final summer invite and need a last-minute gift, or are just stocking up for a lazy weekend at home, we have the perfect package. St. James Cheese Company’s Summer House Selection is a carefully curated selection of nibbles that includes three contrasting (but complimentary) artisanal American cheeses: Point Reyes Original Blue from California; the Gruyere-like Pleasant Ridge Reserve from Wisconsin; and Green Hill, and a Camembert-style cow’s milk cheese from Georgia’s Sweet Grass Dairy.

The wonderful accompaniments, from the Creminelli Soppresata and the Castleton Crackers to the Rhubarb Chutney and Rick’s pickled Mean Beans, are also from small domestic producers.

As for wine, Taigan’s resident sommelier Melanie Armstrong recommends the Baker Lane Sonoma Coast Syrah for the Point Reyes Blue especially, since they both come from the same place. A Wine for All’s excellently priced—and delicious—Aubry Brut Champagne—is the perfect wine with which to toast summer’s end, as well as a wonderful counterpoint to the rich and creamy Green Hill cheese.

Of course, at one point over the weekend you will likely be more disposed toward a restorative Bloody Mary. If that’s the case, make it easy with McClure’s Spicy Bloody Mix, also from St. James. Rick’s Mean Beans are already included in the Summer House Selection and they make the perfect garnish.

Acha (A Wine for All) – Perfect with full throttle burgers. Cult winemaker Mark Herold produced a miniscule amount of this wine from traditionally Spanish grape varietals. Add sautéed Creminis and yellow onions to boost its sweet blackberry jam and earth flavors.

Elyse Morisoli Zinfandel (Elyse) – This is the wine that put Elyse on the map. It’s got finesse and grace despite its girth, and simply begs for bacon and blue cheese burgers.

Modus Operandi “Antithesis” (A Wine for All) – Sure, sometimes it fitting to pair a bargain wine with meat and buns, but occasionally it’s fun to splurge with a pairing that elevates your best burger. We love the downright manly swagger of newcomer Modus Operandi’s complex, merlot-based Napa blend.