Taigan Fetch Magazine by Taigan

No matter how it is said, a perfect, vine-ripened tomato is, for most of us, the prize that makes even the most brutal summers infinitely worthwhile. And no one makes better use of them than the Italians. In ensalata Caprese, in panzanella, in all manner of pizzas and pastas, frittatas and bruschetta. And, when they are at their peak, simply drizzled with olive oil and served up on a plate.

In Italian Food, a wonderful journey of a cookbook by the great English writer Elizabeth David, there is a recipe for Insalata di Pomodoro that could not be simpler: “Slice ripe tomatoes and season them with oil, salt and pepper (no vinegar or lemon), and garnish them liberally with onion tops and parsley, or, when in season, basil. Arrange them on a large flat dish so that they are not piled on each other and so do not become clammy.” That’s it. And it should be it, especially when messing with tomatoes grown from the burgeoning array of heirloom seeds now available.

Heirloom tomatoes are loosely defined as self-pollinators who have bred for at least 40 years. Whatever, they are literal Godsends that more than make up for the serious sins (mealy texture, bland flavor) of too many commercial varieties. Blackberry Farm offers the seeds of two of my favorites, Cherokee Purple and Isis Candy. The former, a rose-to-purple colored beefsteak with deep red flesh, was originally cultivated by the Tennessee Cherokee Indians, and is not only among the most productive of all tomato plants, it’s one of the best tasting—rich, sweet and complex. Isis Candy is a yellow cherry with tinges of red, about an inch in diameter, and incredibly sweet and fruity. They are great on their own simply popped into the mouth like the candy of their name, but I also like them in salads with their larger cousins. In Sunday Suppers at Lucques, a cookbook I could not live without, the brilliant Suzanne Goin makes an heirloom tomato salad with burrata cheese and opal basil that is a sublime variation on a classic Caprese. First, slices of beefsteaks are seasoned with fleur de sel and drizzled with a vinaigrette made of extra-virgin olive oil, red wine and balsamic vinegars, oregano, and garlic. Next, slices of creamy buratta are tucked in and basil is scattered over. Finally, heirloom wedges and halved cherries are tossed with chopped shallots, kosher salt, and more vinaigrette and piled up on top. Goin throws in torn bread croutons, but they aren’t necessary. Either way, it is a tomato lover’s dream.

So is the new cookbook, Recipes from an Italian Summer, produced by the same team behind the twin Italian cookery bibles, Silver Spoon and Silver Spoon Pasta. Equally comprehensive, the new one is divided into seven sections: Picnics, Salads, Barbecues, Light Lunches and Suppers, Summer Entertaining, Desserts, and Ice Creams and Drinks. To cook your way through it is to feel like Elizabeth David must have felt when she spent the better part of a year trekking through Italy researching Italian Food. It is also to encounter lots of tomatoes. Two of the best uses for them are in the recipes below, which have the added bonus of requiring very little actual cooking. Have one followed by the other and toast to summer’s finest bounty.

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Baby Zucchini Salad
(Adapted from Recipes from an Italian Summer, Phaidon)
Serves 4

6 baby zucchini, thinly sliced lengthwise
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, shaved
1 pinch dried oregano
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tomatoes, peeled and sliced
salt and freshly ground pepper

Put the zucchini in a salad bowl. Add the Parmesan, oregano, and olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Mix well and set aside in a cool place for at least 30 minutes to let the flavors mingle. Add the tomatoes and toss just before serving.

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Spaghetti with Raw Tomato
(Adapted from Recipes from an Italian Summer, Phaidon)
Serves 4

1 pound, 2 ounces vine ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
10 leaves fresh basil, torn
2 cloves garlic, smashed but still whole
12 ounces spaghetti
salt and pepper

Put the tomatoes in a salad bowl. Add the oil, basil, and garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Mix well, cover, and set aside in a cool place for 30 minutes to let the flavors mingle. Remove and discard garlic.
Cook the spaghetti in a large pot of salted boiling water for 8 to 10 minutes, or according to package directions, until it is tender but firm to the bite. Drain and toss with the raw tomato sauce. Serve immediately.

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Pictured above, from left: Heirloom tomatoes grown from seeds at Blackberry Farm; Baby Zucchini Salad; Spaghetti with Raw Tomato

Not pictured: Extra-virgin olive oil from Marco Zanetti, made in Tuscany from trees as old as a hundred years. This rich and peppery oil is the mighty tomato’s best possible accompaniment.

Shop Blackberry Farm and Marco Zanetti on TAIGAN.com

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